Garage Door Won't Open? Here's What's Going On
Deep breath, you'll get through this. The most common reasons a garage door won't open are dead remote batteries, an engaged emergency release cord (so the opener runs but the door doesn't move), a tripped or unplugged opener, or blocked safety sensors near the floor. Work through the quick checks below in order, and stop right away if you spot a snapped cable or a broken spring at the top of the door, because those parts are under heavy tension and need a pro, not a DIY fix.
Step by step
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1
Try the wall button, not just the remote
Press the hardwired wall control inside the garage. If the door opens from the wall button but not your remote or keypad, the opener itself is fine and the problem is your remote, usually a dead battery (swap in a fresh coin-cell or AA) or one that needs reprogramming. If nothing happens from the wall button either, move on to power and the opener.
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2
Check that the opener actually has power
Confirm the opener is plugged in, since a vibrating motor can slowly back a plug halfway out of the outlet. Then check your breaker panel for a tripped breaker and reset it. Test the outlet with a phone charger or lamp; a dead GFCI outlet just needs its reset button pushed. Look for a light on the motor unit, if it's totally dark, you've found your power problem.
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3
Look at the safety sensors near the floor
Every opener made since 1993 has two small photo-eye sensors about six inches off the ground on each side of the door. If they're misaligned or blocked, the door won't go up (or will only close a few inches and reverse). Wipe the lenses clean, clear away any leaves, bikes, or trash bins, and nudge the brackets until both indicator lights glow steady instead of blinking.
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4
See if the emergency release was pulled
If the motor runs and the chain moves but the door stays put, someone pulled the red emergency release cord, which disconnects the door from the opener. With the door fully closed, pull that cord again toward the door (or look for a re-engage position), then press the wall button once. The trolley will click back onto the carriage and reconnect automatically.
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5
Inspect for a broken spring or cable, then stop
Look at the spring above the door (or the springs along the sides) and the cables running down each side. A gap in the coil, a spring split in two, or a frayed or dangling cable means the part that does the heavy lifting has failed, and the door is now far too heavy to lift safely. Do not try to force it open or pull the release. This is the point to call a pro.
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6
Don't fight a stuck or crooked door
If the door is jammed, sitting crooked in the tracks, or came off a roller, forcing it can bend the panels or send a roller flying. Pulling the door up by hand against a failed spring can also drop it. Leave it where it is, keep kids and cars clear, and get a technician out to reset it safely.
When to call a pro
Call a pro if you see a broken or split spring, a snapped or frayed cable, a door that's crooked or off its tracks, or if it's been forced and won't budge, these are high-tension repairs that cause serious injuries every year and aren't a safe DIY job.
Call (888) 290-7421Frequently asked
Why does my garage door opener run but the door won't move?
That almost always means the door is disconnected from the opener because the red emergency release cord was pulled. With the door fully closed, pull the cord back toward the door (or to its re-engage position) and press the wall button once; the trolley will click back onto the carriage and reconnect. If the chain or belt is moving but the trolley never reconnects, the opener's gear or trolley may be worn and needs service.
How do I open my garage door manually when the power is out?
First make sure the door is all the way down, then pull the red emergency release cord straight down to disconnect it from the opener. You can now lift the door by hand; it should feel light and stay put when raised partway. If it feels extremely heavy or slams down, stop, that points to a broken spring, and lifting it by hand is dangerous. When power returns, pull the cord toward the door and run the opener once to re-engage.
My garage door only opens a few inches then stops or reverses. What's wrong?
On opening, a door that stops short usually has a travel-limit setting that's off or a worn part binding in the track, both of which a technician can adjust quickly. If it's the closing direction that reverses, that's almost always the safety sensors near the floor being blocked or misaligned. Either way, also check for a frayed cable or a spring that's lost tension, since a weak spring makes the opener strain and quit partway.
Is it safe to fix a garage door spring myself?
No. Garage door springs are wound under enormous tension and can release with enough force to break bones or worse, which is why spring replacement is one of the most common sources of garage-door injuries. It also takes specific winding bars and the correctly rated spring for your door's weight. Leave springs and cables to a trained technician; the visual checks in this guide are as far as you should go on your own.
Rather leave it to a pro?
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