Cost to Convert Two Single Doors Into One Double Garage Door
Converting two single garage doors into one double door typically runs $1,800 to $4,500 for a standard build, and $4,000 to $9,000+ if the center post between the openings is load-bearing and needs a structural header (a steel beam or LVL). The big cost driver isn't the door itself, it's the carpentry: removing that center column, sizing and installing a beam to carry the roof load above, and re-framing the opening to a clean 16-foot width. Get a structural assessment before you budget, because a load-bearing post is the difference between a one-day swap and a multi-day framing job.
Step by step
-
1
Find out if the center post is load-bearing
This is the first thing to settle, because it splits the price into two very different worlds. The column between your two doors may be just a frame for the doors (cosmetic) or it may be holding up a roof truss, a second story, or a beam. Have a contractor or structural engineer look in the attic above the opening: if trusses or rafters land on that wall, it's load-bearing. An engineer's stamp runs $300 to $700 and most permit offices require it. Don't skip this and don't let anyone yank the post without a plan to carry the load.
-
2
Budget for the structural header if the post comes out
To open up a 16-foot span you need a beam across the top to carry the weight the post used to. For a typical garage that's an LVL (engineered lumber) at roughly $600 to $1,500 installed, or a steel beam at $1,500 to $4,000+ for wider spans or two-story loads. Add temporary shoring while the post is out, new king and jack studs, and sometimes a deeper footing under the new posts. This single item is why load-bearing conversions land in the $4,000 to $9,000 range instead of under $3,000.
-
3
Price the new double door and opening re-frame
A 16x7 double door runs about $750 to $1,500 for a basic steel insulated model, $1,500 to $3,500 for upgraded steel, and $3,500 to $6,000+ for wood, carriage-house, or full-view glass. Pro installation is usually $300 to $600. You'll also pay to re-frame the rough opening to a true 16 feet, patch and side the old jambs, and pour or patch the slab where the post sat. Most homeowners spend $1,800 to $4,500 all-in when the post is non-load-bearing.
-
4
Re-do the opener, tracks, and spring system
You can't reuse two single-door setups on one wide door. A 16-foot door needs its own torsion spring sized to the door's weight, longer horizontal tracks, and a single opener centered on the new door, $200 to $500 for the opener plus install. If you had two openers, one gets removed. Factor in new weatherseal, a bottom astragal, and rewiring the wall button and photo-eye sensors to the new centered position.
-
5
Add permits, electrical, and finish work
A structural change almost always needs a building permit, $100 to $500 depending on your city, and an inspection. If the old center post had an outlet or a light switch on it, an electrician needs to relocate that wiring, $150 to $400. Then there's drywall, paint, and exterior siding or trim to make the wider opening look original instead of patched. These 'small' finish items quietly add $500 to $1,500.
-
6
Get at least two itemized, structural-aware bids
Because so much of this job is hidden carpentry, two bids can differ by thousands depending on how each contractor handles the beam. Ask each one to itemize the door, the header/beam, shoring, re-framing, slab work, opener, permits, and finish. A bid that only lists 'remove post, install 16ft door' for a load-bearing wall is a red flag, it means they haven't priced the structural work yet.
When to call a pro
Call a pro, and ideally a structural engineer, before you touch anything if there's any chance the center post is load-bearing, if your garage has a room or a second story above it, or if you ever see cracks appear in the wall or ceiling after the post is disturbed, that's an active structural warning, not a DIY situation.
Call (888) 290-7421Frequently asked
Is it cheaper to just keep my two single doors?
Almost always, yes. Replacing two single doors with two new single doors runs about $1,400 to $4,000 total with no structural work. Converting to one double adds the cost of removing the center post, installing a header beam, and re-framing, so you're paying a premium for the look and the wider drive-through, not saving money. People convert for usability (one big bay, easier to back a wide vehicle in) and curb appeal, not to cut costs.
Can I remove the center post myself to save money?
Only if a pro has confirmed it's non-load-bearing, and even then the door, spring, and opener work is best left to a technician because a 16-foot door's torsion spring stores enough energy to cause serious injury. If the post is load-bearing, do not remove it yourself under any circumstances. Pulling a structural post without shoring and a sized beam can sag or collapse the roof. The engineering and beam work is exactly where you want a licensed pro and a permit.
How long does the conversion take?
A non-load-bearing conversion is often 1 to 2 days: pull the post, re-frame, hang the new door, set the spring and opener. A load-bearing job with a steel or LVL beam typically runs 3 to 5 days once you factor in shoring, beam install, inspection sign-off, and finish work like siding and paint. Permit approval before the job starts can add a week or two on top of that, depending on your city.
Will one double door let two cars in side by side?
A standard 16-foot double door fits two average cars side by side, but it's snug, you'll want to fold mirrors and park carefully. If you drive full-size trucks or SUVs, that 16 feet feels tight. Some homeowners go to an 18-foot opening for breathing room, but that widens the span, which means a bigger (pricier) header beam. Measure your vehicles plus a couple feet of clearance before you commit to a width.
Rather leave it to a pro?
Licensed local techs, same-day service, upfront pricing, and a 1-year warranty.