How to Replace Cracked or Bent Garage Door Hinges
To replace a cracked or bent garage door hinge, close the door fully so the spring isn't pulling tension through the rollers, then unbolt the damaged hinge from the two door sections it joins, swap in a matching numbered hinge, and torque the lag screws and track bolts back down snug. Most homeowners can knock this out in 20 to 30 minutes with a socket set and a step ladder. Just steer clear of the springs, cables, and the bottom-corner brackets, since those hold dangerous spring tension.
Step by step
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1
Close the door and gather the right hinge
Put the door all the way down and unplug the opener so nobody hits the button while your hands are in the hinges. Look at the face of your broken hinge for a stamped number (1, 2, 3, and so on). That number tells you where the hinge belongs on the door, and the higher the number, the more it's offset. Buy the same number to match. A #1 hinge in a #3 spot will bind and crack again. Standard residential hinges are 14-gauge galvanized steel and run about $3 to $8 each at any hardware store.
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2
Grab your tools and find the hinge bolts
You'll need a 7/16-inch and a 1/2-inch socket (most door hardware uses one of these), a ratchet, a step ladder, and safety glasses. Each hinge is held by two sets of fasteners: lag screws or carriage bolts going into the door sections, plus the roller stem that slips into the hinge sleeve. Center hinges sit in the middle of the door; end hinges on the edges also carry a roller. Work on one hinge at a time so the door panels stay aligned.
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3
Unbolt and remove the damaged hinge
Back out the bolts holding the bad hinge to both the upper and lower door sections. On an end hinge, the roller stem pulls out of the hinge as you free it. If a bolt is rusted, hit it with penetrating oil and give it a few minutes rather than rounding off the head. Pull the cracked or bent hinge straight off. If the screw holes in the door are stripped or wallowed out, that's a sign the panel is fatigued. Note it for later.
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4
Bolt in the matching new hinge
Set the new same-numbered hinge in place, reinsert the roller (for end hinges), and start all bolts by hand first so you don't cross-thread. Then snug everything down with the socket. You want them firm, not gorilla-tight. Over-torquing into a steel door can strip the threads. Make sure the hinge sits flat against both panels with no gap, because a hinge that's even slightly proud will throw the door off track.
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5
Test the door by hand, then with the opener
Reconnect the opener, but first lift the door manually about halfway and let go. A balanced door should hold roughly in place. Watch your new hinge as the door cycles, looking for any flex, rubbing, or a gap opening up. Then run it once with the opener and listen. A grinding or clunk at the new hinge means the roller isn't seated or the panel's out of square. Smooth and quiet means you nailed it.
When to call a pro
Call a pro if the cracked hinges keep coming back (that usually means a sagging or warped panel, not a bad hinge), if the damage is on a bottom-corner bracket where the cable attaches, or if the door is off its track, since those involve spring tension that can cause serious injury.
Call (888) 290-7421Frequently asked
How do I know which garage door hinge to buy?
Look for a number stamped right on the face of the old hinge (1 through 5 is typical). That number marks its position on the door, and you need to replace it with the exact same number. The higher numbers have a greater offset to match the door's curve as it rolls up the track. Bring the old hinge to the store if you can't read the stamp, and match the gauge too. Most residential doors use 14-gauge.
Is it safe to replace a garage door hinge myself?
Yes, for the body hinges between door sections, as long as the door is fully closed and the opener is unplugged. Those hinges aren't under spring tension. What is dangerous are the springs (the coils above the door or alongside the tracks), the lift cables, and the bottom-corner brackets. Those store enough force to break bones. Leave anything involving those to a pro with the right tools.
What happens if I keep using a cracked or bent hinge?
A failing hinge lets the door panels shift out of alignment, which puts extra strain on the rollers, the track, and the neighboring hinges. You'll often hear popping or grinding and see the door jerk as it moves. Left alone, one cracked hinge can cascade into a roller jumping the track or a panel bending, turning a $5 fix into a real repair. It's worth swapping promptly.
Why do my garage door hinges keep cracking?
Repeat hinge cracks usually aren't the hinge's fault. The most common cause is a sagging or warped door section that flexes every cycle and fatigues the metal at the bolt holes. Other culprits are out-of-spec rollers, a door that's out of balance because of a tired spring, or hinges that were the wrong number for their position. If you've replaced the same hinge twice, have a tech check the panel and balance.
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